Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
