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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.